“She’s a queer sort of cove is Romney Marsh (Septimus Mipps; Doctor Syn)
It was Russell Thorndike who created the legend of Doctor Syn over a hundred years ago, and he was far from the first to write of the nature and qualities of the Marsh; for many years its uniqueness has attracted names such as the fifth continent and the fifth quarter of the world.
In its purest form, Romney Marsh covers just 24,000 acres: a triangle with Appledore, Hythe and New Romney at its vertices; and with boundaries delineated by the Royal Military Canal (RMC), the English Channel and Rhee Wall.
Very rarely is this definition applied, however – it is more generally used to denote the larger area additionally comprising Walland Marsh (essentially Lydd to the Kent Ditch) and Denge Marsh (Lydd and Dungeness), Broomhill and the South Bank Levels. In total, this is some 46,000 acres, or 72 square miles in area. Some commentators additionally include the levels west of Rye, which encompasses Winchelsea Beach and Pett Level. Although the “purists” contend this, the argument has some legitimacy in terms of geography, and the fact that the RMC extends all the way to Pett Level.
For those who have fallen under its spell, Romney Marsh remains a very special place. Only relatively recently (in geological terms) reclaimed from the sea, it offers a rare peace and tranquility, despite only being a 90-minute journey away from the heart of London. There is also an independence of spirit amongst its inhabitants, probably born from the fact that, as its main town was a founder member of the Cinque Ports, the Marsh was for many years granted exemption from central taxes and the right to administer its own justice (in return for providing an annual complement of ships to the king).
Now, the Marsh is regularly “rediscovered” by journalists struggling to fill column inches. Often it is Dungeness that is featured, along with its depiction as “the UK’s only desert.” This is totally untrue, of course – but even broadcasts put out by the Met Office to counter the falsehood that Dungeness is a desert are ignored.
Yet it is easy to see why it attracts such a description: to the uninitiated, Dungeness looks like another land. Comprising the largest expanse of shingle in Europe and with its brooding power stations, two lighthouses and vastly contrasting housing stock, its differences stand out even from the rest of the Marsh. One of the attractions of Dungeness, of course, is Prospect Cottage – the former home of the iconic Derek Jarman; and a large number of the million or so visitors a year come specifically to see this. In fact, it is no exaggeration to say that visitors come from all over the world to see Jarman’s cottage.
The creation of this massive shingle headland began over 5000 years ago. But there is far more to the Marsh than Dungeness. The contrasts to be found within such in such a small area are quite astonishing. Less than five miles away are the beautiful golden sands of Greatstone, which, only just over a hundred years ago, were still permanently underwater. Bordering the Marsh are the rolling Hythe Hills, and the Royal Military Canal – designed to keep out Napoleon, but now a pleasant watercourse which helps to drain its rich pastures. And then there is the backbone of the Marsh: the wonderfully-eccentric Romney Hythe & Dymchurch Railway, which follows the coastline from Hythe around to Dungeness.
There is so much to see on the Marsh: you can revel in its history; indulge in some spectacular walking (either by the coast or in open country); sample the rich choice of seafood to be found; run with your kids on one of many fine sandy beaches; witness the spectacular Day of Syn (the largest free event in south east England) at Dymchurch; ride on the RH&DR; or take some cheer in one of numerous old country pubs. Further, even if your interest is purely secular, any one of the iconic Romney Marsh churches is well worth a visit. There truly is something for everyone to be found here.
The appeal of the Marsh is such that, over the last 10 years or so, it has spawned a glut of novels set here. Some of these are better than others, and are referenced within the “other sites” page.
